Facts You May Not Have Known About Hermit Crabs

Hermit crabs are found both on land and in water. Whether they are land or sea crabs, they are crustaceans that live in a shell discarded by another animal. This article is talking about the peculiarities of "land" or "tree" hermit crabs, not the ocean varieties.

They truly start life like fish and grow into land life. These little crabs start out in the ocean, much like sea hermit crabs. While they're in the water as babies, hermit crabs start out as larvae called zoeae and grow into aquatic crabs, they swim and breathe underwater through gills. As adults, they can no longer breathe underwater, but they still breathe through gills that must be kept moist to prevent suffocation. Grown up hermit crabs have lost their ability to swim.

Their tail shape is set by their first shell. A hermit crab's rear end curves to fit into and hold onto the shell they live in. The shape of their first shell is very important, and will influence shell selection for the rest of their lives.

They "go number one" below their eyes. Hermit crabs excrete urine through glands at the base of their antennae. Which means that they "pee" through their faces.

Their name is a misnomer. Although these animals are commonly called "hermit crabs" they are actually not true crabs because they lack a hard abdomen armor, and they are not hermits, because they live in large groups of about a hundred crabs in the wild.

Hermit crabs have been bred in captivity, but this is not where pet store stock comes from. All pet stock available has been harvested off beaches throughout the world where these animals are native. Most pet hermit crabs in the US come from the West Atlantic coasts.

They have no vocal cords, but they still "talk". These cute little crustaceans make sounds sort of like chirps by rubbing legs together. This is called "stridulating" and works similar to the noise you get when you rub your two hands together. They can be very expressive.

They molt. To grow, this crustacean has to go through process of burying themselves, shedding their old exoskeleton, eating it, and re-emerging. This is called molting, and the whole thing can take weeks. Without somewhere safe to bury themselves for weeks approximately once or twice a year, a hermit crab will die.

Only six of their ten legs are generally visible. Although hermit crabs have ten legs like a spider, they keep the back four inside their shells to anchor them in and keep the inside of the shell clean.

Legs can be "thrown off" without killing the crab. If a crab is stressed or scared, they can "drop" a leg to distract a threat so that they can hopefully get away. They sometimes do this when they are sickly, too. They will grow a new leg back oven the next few molts.

Hermits do poop. Their owners sometimes wonder if they do, because crab poop is small and blends in with bedding materials. These guys either defecate inside their shell and then scoop it out or out the side of their shell.

"Hermies" have long been adored as short-term pets that are easy to care for. Actually, they can live up to 30 years or so in captivity when cared for correctly. Pet stores routinely give poor pet care to hermit crabs, and pass poor pet care information to owners, resulting in short lifespans. As a very misunderstood pet, they have a strong grass-roots following of devotees on-line distributing good care information.

Exotic Rodents: Why Should I Care?

Keeping rodents as pets means you encounter a lot of misconceptions. Rodents are after all a "pest" and "unclean" and they have a short lifespan, no personality and low intelligence. People assign cruel, arbitrary values to their life and make jokes they would never dream of making about a dog or cat.

One of the above is true; the majority of rodents are short-lived, something often made even shorter if your animal originates from a rodent farm, or unethical breeder or pet shop. Incorrect husbandry, such as keeping a social gerbil alone will also drastically shorten lifespan; a lonely gerbil may live up to 18 months, but if kept with company will likely reach between 3-5 years.

Within this relatively short lifespan rodents pack so much activity, life and personality that it almost makes up for the short length of time they are in your life.

It is true that some rodents smell, it is after all one of their strongest senses and a major form of communication for them. Rodent keepers learn to become accustomed to a certain level of musk and scent-marking, since this means their rodent is happier and more secure. Overzealous cleaning of cages can conversely make the problem much worse, as the rodents will scent mark obsessively to reclaim their territory. Like any animal, this varies greatly - male mice can be quite strong in scent, whereas rodents such as harvest mice and steppe lemmings have almost no odour at all.

To say they are unclean however is false, rodents groom themselves and each other frequently, it is both a form of bonding and social communication. They should never need human intervention for to wash them, although species such as Mongolian gerbils and chinchillas should have a dust bath supplied to allow them to clean their fur. Rodents are only unclean if ill, or kept in poor conditions.

Rodents exhibit a full range of behaviours, their reactions and preferences to things can differ greatly. I don't see how anyone can interact with their pet, given the correct husbandry and believe they have no personality! You should always try a full range of nests, foods, and accessories such as wheels, or climbing material for each individual since there is no telling what a particular animal will love or hate. Some rodents will adore your handling, pet mice may brux when happy, and mice pups and guinea-pigs jump vertically in excitement known as "popcorning". Some rodents can be trained to follow simple commands, take obstacles courses, and gerbils are not alone in very swiftly learning the sound of their own names.

More exotic rodents will be less interested in human interaction, and some such as the African pygmy mice are too small to handle safely. The fact that some exotics are more pets to observe than interact with is hardly a failing on their part, or indicative of a lack of intelligence. Given a natural habitat, and space and items to exhibit as full a range of behaviour as possible and it is easy to see how individual each rodent can be.

More established rodent pets can bond with an owner every bit as much as a dog or cat, and in some cases more so. Male mice and rats can be happy riding on an owners shoulders, and pet flying squirrels can bond very closely with an owner providing they have good breeding and are acquired at a young age. The important aspect is to consider what you want from a pet, for a rodent can be every bit as rewarding as a larger animal - it just may need a keener eye to see it.

Coping With The Loss of A Pet Rat

For many rat owners, losing one of their best furry friends is a very emotional and painful experience. Often, friends and family might not understand the extent of your grief over the loss of a 'rat'.

What they fail to understand is that you had a deep connection with your friend on a soul level and that they were a close friend, just like a human friend. 

Please take heart and know that many pet carers share this same deep grieving when they lose a beloved animal friend.

Many people have different ways of coping with grief, it is important to allow yourself time and space to grieve in the way that only you can. Sometimes, it is helpful to pay a tribute to your friend through creating a pictorial record of their life or by sharing an obituary on a rat forum.

Do whatever feels right for you to help you come to terms with your loss. Give yourself time before you feel yourself again. It can take me around 2-3 months before I feel mostly recovered from the loss of a ratty friend. Having other ratties to take care of also helps. They can also feel the loss of a close friend, so they need your comfort and presence to help them with their grief too.

What helps me is knowing that these little beings had a wonderful life with me they may never have otherwise had. And also, my own faith in a Conscious Loving Creator gives me a sense that there is no end to life, but only the physical relinquishing of a material form no longer able to sustain itself.

Also, the passing of your present rat(s) also makes room for even more rats to enter your life and enjoy the love and wonderful lifestyle you have to give them.

Many people hurt so badly that they say they don't want another rat(s). Hopefully, after a little time, once over their grief, they will realise that although it was painful to lose their friend, they also had many many hours of joy and fun with them. And so did the rats with them!

In the film 'Ghost' Swayze's character said at the end ' You take the love with you'. And I think that's true. Love is invisible and yet it is without doubt that it exists. Just remember that each one of your rats takes the love back to the Creator and feeds that back into the Universe. It's a wonderful thought isn't it?

You are blessed to have known each one of your wonderful furry friends and they were blessed to have known and shared their lives with you.

Or contact an online pet bereavement counseller.

A book I recommend for the open minded is 'Animals And The Afterlife' by Kim Sheridan. It's a wonderful book with many true accounts from pet owners who have experienced messages or contact with the pets they have lost. This book helped me a lot in coping with loss and the author has been caring for rats for many years that made it particularly meaningful for me.

I have also experienced 'contact' with my rats on the other side of life, and that has made me realise without a doubt, that life continues.

"There is no death, only the relinquishing of a form that temporarily embodied the spirit as part of the play of creation. Essence/Spirit cannot die, it is all around us within everything that comes into being or form. It's the energy that animates our bodies and is the Source of creation. It is that which gives life to the form or being and simply lets go of form when the matter cannot sustain itself any longer due to illness or ageing. For all matter is subject to decay in this third dimensional existence, but life or spirit always Is. Forms will always come and go but Spirit/Life Always Is, Here and Now, Forever and Ever." (Anabrese)

Healing Wishes and Love To You and Your Rats, Wherever They May Be!

Socializing Indonesian Blue Tongue Skinks

Let's face it, the majority of Blue Tongue Skinks in the pet trade currently are imported indonesian (or subspecies) Blue Tongue Skinks. This could mean that the unsuspecting buyer who is expecting the easily handled captive bred blue tongue skink, ends up with a hissy, reclusive, and defensive animal which they are not prepared for. Though the animal may never calm down to the point of a captive bred blue tongue skink, we can "socialize" this bluey to the point that handling doesn't put as much stress on the animal.

By socialize, I really mean get the skink used to human contact so that when handling is needed (or desired by the human keeper) it doesn't put stress on the skink. Stress causes a lot of issues in captive reptiles. Ranging from disease, to going off feed, to just putting them in a really bad mood. So really, when working with most Wild Caught reptiles, taking steps similar to this can help them adjust to life in captivity.

The first thing to always remember is always stay calm. It can be quite the task working with an animal who is deathly afraid of you and only wants to run away. It can also be intimidating to have a blue tongue skink gape it's mouth, threatening to bite you, and hiss. You might get bitten, and you have to accept that. Take it from me, when it comes to Blue Tongue Skinks the thought of being bitten is a lot more painful than the bite itself. Anyways, 99% of the time they are only bluffing, and as soon as you go near them they stop bluffing and attempt to run away.

Okay, so now you've overcome your fears of the not so terrible bluey bite... Well what's next? Patience. This isn't going to be an easy task. This bluey was trapped (or farmed), and shipped to a pet store. It probably doesn't trust humans. So its going to be a slow and steady process.

This is where I would start. Sleep in a tee-shirt for a few days (make sure you aren't wearing any perfume or deodorant before, have a shower if you had some on) and then knot up the openings so the skink can't get into it. Place this in his enclosure and leave it in there. He will hide under the shirt, and lay on top of it and start linking up your smell with security and safety.

I would then move onto hand feeding. The title of that is pretty self explanatory, off the skink small bits of food by hand. If the animal is too afraid to try, don't force it. Just allow him/her to eat by itself and try again next feeding time, they'll catch on eventually.

Once the Bluey will let you pick her/him up with only a little bit of hissing, and no gaping, begin handling sessions. Just let the skink walk on you and explore. Start for the first week at keeping these very short, around five minutes. Week two bump it up to ten minutes. Week three bump it up to fifteen. Once the skink is comfortable in the fifteen minute range of handling you should be good to go for longer. However, remember the skink still needs the heat and UVB lighting in it's enclosure so don't keep them out for too long.

Remember, you will have good days and bad days. One day you might think you've made real progress and then the next the bluey might be right back to square one. They will come around, you just need to take the time to do it!

Bearded Dragon Care - Cleaning Your Bearded Dragon Habitat

To ensure proper bearded dragon care, it's important to make sure you clean their habitats. It's vital that you clean the habitat everyday. Bearded dragons typically produce waste once a day and that includes urine. The urine instantly soaks down to the bottom of the cage into the substrate. 

One thing that does help with the smell of the fecal matter is choosing a good substrate, something like the ground up walnut shell substrate is great and fairly cheap. Whatever you are feeding your dragon,insect wise, especially the crickets, will carry the excrement around and eat it. It's just gross. The easiest way to clean the substrate daily is to get a wired scoop or aquarium fish net.

The dragons water should be changed everyday, you might have to change it a couple times a day. It's recommended getting a stone type of water dish for them. With this type of water dish, they won't be able to knock it over and cause a big spill in their cage. If they spill and the water collects under the water or food dish, it can mold because of the habitats warm temperatures. 

If the water sits for too long, it begins to create a nasty film on the sides and bottom of the dish that can begin to grow bacteria and make your dragon sick. Soak the water dish once a week in a water and very tiny amount of bleach type mixture. You want to let it soak for at least 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly. If you have other reptiles, do not let any of the dishes come in contact with each other. This is called cross contamination and it could compromise your dragons and other reptiles health.

Equally important is cleaning the food dish daily. If your dragon is eating greens, or bearded dragon diet, or you're putting worms in the dish, bacteria can grow just as easy as it can in the water. Another reason this is important is because the temperatures of the habitat stay warm during the day and it cause the lettuce to wilt and if left too long, will go bad and it could lead to mold. Like the water dish, you want to soak this in a water and bleach (very small amount) for at least 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

Once a month, you should clean the entire habitat, including furnishings. Cleaning the furnishings can be done by taking them out and soaking them in the water/bleach solution as mentioned above. Soak for at least 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Make sure it's completely dry before putting it back into the habitat. The substrate needs to be changed once a month, as long as you're spot cleaning it daily. The easiest way to remove the substrate is with a shop vac. You can also scoop it out, but it takes a while. 

After the substrate is removed, use a warm soapy (not too much or it's difficult to get all the soap) water mixture. With a clean cloth, sponge, etc, wipe down the bottom and all the sides of the habitat real good. You can use the same sponge or cloth to rinse. Make sure all of the soap is out of it and start wiping the soap out of the habitat. Use paper towel, a clean towel, etc to dry the habitat completely. Now you're ready to pour the new substrate in. Make sure to make a note on a calendar the date you cleaned the habitat.

Once you start doing the cleanings etc, it truly does become second nature to providing excellent bearded dragon care.

Bearded dragons make wonderful pets, they can also live a very long time if you take care of them the right way.

Pet Hedgehogs - Buying Guide

When buying pet hedgehogs, there are some important things to look for to make sure you have a healthy animal.

Things to check: 

• Its Nose - your hedgehog's nose should be black and wet, kind of like a dogs. It should not be running and it should not be making "rasping" noises as this may be a sign of a respiratory infection.
• Eyes - should be black and ball like, the eyes should be clear and black, patchy eyes and or cloudy eyes are signs of genetic defects and any hedgehog with these should not be bought. Other signs that the hedgehog is not healthy include, runny, closed, sunken or droopy eyes and any signs of conjunctivitis.
• Ears - Ears should be nice and clean. Your new pet may have little nibbles or chunks out of their ears but this is fine as long as they are healed (sometimes a hoglets they can get a little too close to their siblings and be bitten)
• Weight - They should be "plump" if you look at their belly there should be a little padding and no loose droopy skin, it should also have fine hair and you should see its little chubby pink belly. Which if it will let you touch it will feel soft and a fluffy.
• Legs - Watch your hog have a little walk around, this one is mostly common sense, make sure it is walking as it should, no wobbles or limps or anything like that.
• Responses - A healthy animal will be very inquisitive and interested in anything in its proximity, if you put your hand in front of it, that should be enough to get it around you sniffing and maybe having a little lick. It should also start to "huffle" if it gets stressed, so try picking it up and seeing if it balls up and huffles, this is completely normal for pet hedgehogs.
• Quills - You want to make sure that there are no missing quills or bald patches, often there are broken quills but this is normal as they can be quite rough and tumble, but they are very resilient animals and can handle a broken quill or two.
• Skin - some hedgehogs have little mites at the base of their quills, if they do they will have small scabs at the base, these are easy to see and identify. Never buy a hedgehog with mites.

Testing a pet hedgehogs temperament - there are a few simple things you can do to test that your pet hedgehogs temperament is good and that you get a sociable animal, because nobody wants a moody or shy pet. 

• Pick up your hog and it should curl into a ball and "huffle", turn it onto it's back and see how long it takes to uncurl, a social hog will do this in about 30 seconds, if it does not ball at all then you have an extremely sociable little pet.
• Stroke your hedgehog - Will it let you stroke its quills or its belly? What about its feet? Most hogs will not let you do this without curling up, however if it does then that's a fantastic sign.
• Put it on the floor- When you put it down, a sociable hog will uncurl and start sniffing things almost immediately. Some will curl up and huffle and for a bit but if they do this for around 2 minutes or more then that is a sign that your hog may not be the most sociable.

Hedgehogs As Pets - An Amazing Idea

Are you searching for the perfect pet? Look no further, I have the solution, it has the cute factor, is cheap to buy, is even cheaper to keep, provides lots of entertainment, doesn't take up too much space and did I mention that they are ridiculously cute?

I'm talking about an African pygmy hedgehog, they literally are the perfect pet (in my completely biased opinion). The entertainment provided by these little cuties can last for hours, they are so curious and intelligent that just watching them is entertaining. Whatever you put in their cage will be sniffed, pulled around, licked and combined with other items to create some form of havoc. Mine has realized that if he puts his wheel up against his food bowl he will never knock it over, yet he doesn't seem to care that it makes it ridiculously noisy.

Keeping hedgehogs as pets is an awesome idea, you can pick one up from a good breeder for around £100/ $150, and once you have that initial outlay they cost barely nothing, they eat dry cat food and sleep on wood shavings. Of course if you feel like treating your hedgehog you can buy meal worms or scramble some eggs for them, at a minuscule extra cost. The toys that they play with can be anything from toilet roll tubes to a bit of string tied to the roof of their cage.

The cuteness comes in whenever your hog is awake, they will literally sniff everything you put in front of them, and there is not a cuter site in the world than when they like the smell of something and start licking it. It's ridiculously cute.

There are other things to consider before getting hedgehogs as pets, such as health, quality of breeder, these are things that require an article in themselves but we will deal with that later.

For now though, more reasons why you want one, watching them play with their toys is a sheer joy, my little boy Anderson loves running on his wheel, it is almost as if he knows when you are watching because he will run around in circuits, on his wheel for a minute, around his house, into his tube, over for a drink of water, then around his food bowl and back onto the wheel to repeat the exact same circuit. However when I am not watching, he will run around on his wheel for hours on end.

I highly recommend hedgehogs as pets.

What Will My Hermit Crab Eat?

You might be wondering "What in the world do hermit crabs actually eat?" Well, look no further, I'm going to go over a wide array of foods that your crab will love, and that will keep her healthy.

They actually consume a fairly decent variety of different foods, most of which are common and inexpensive. Commercially prepared foods will make up the foundation of a healthy crab's diet, with fruits, grains and other common foods rounding things out.

You will be able to find commercially prepared foods at any pet store that are safe for hermit crabs, and you will find a thorough list of "people foods" your crabs will love below.

Variety is the Spice of Life

Oh so true, and especially when it comes to a healthy hermit crab diet. Your crabs will thrive if given a variety of different foods each day. Choosing a good prepared food and supplementing with fresh foods is always a good way to go. Foods should be rotated regularly since prepared foods, fruits, and other foods listed below all contain different vitamins and micronutrients that will benefit your little crabby friends.

Be diligent when choosing a commercial crab food from the pet store. Any food containing ethoxyquin or copper sulfate should be avoided, as these ingredients are both included in common pesticides, and I don't feel good about feeding them to my crabs.

For the "people food", try some these!

He'll enjoy: 

• Dried cereals, crackers, and bread
• Diced pears, bananas, coconut, and apples
• Grapes (peeled)
• Peanut Butter
• Shredded Spinach
• Shredded Lettuce
• Cooked Potatoes

Serve your crab the food in very small pieces so she can manage eating them without difficulty.

Did you know that hermit crabs have a sweet tooth? It's true. They often enjoy munching on sweet foods, and a good way to satisfy these cravings is with baby food.

Some flavors they will like: 

• Bananas and Apples
• Apples, Kiwi, and Mango
• Apple Sauce
• Sweet Potato & Apple
• Apple and Pear
• Guava Fruit
• Papaya Fruit
• Mango Fruit
• Sweet Corn
• Chiquita Banana

Anything fruity will work, so don't feel limited by the above list. Baby foods are sweet and nutritious so they make an ideal choice. Hermit crabs, like people, will all have different preferences when it comes to the foods they enjoy. Take notice of what your crabs polish off quickly, and what tends to sit for some time without being eaten.

A Definitive Guide In Taking Care Of Your Pet Rabbit

Because rabbits are not the usual pets that people take care of, there are some things that you need to know first in order to properly take care of your exotic pet. Remember that taking care of a rabbit requires you to exert a lot of hard work, effort, time and even money in some cases. It would not be as easy as you may think it is especially if it is you first time to raise a rabbit. Below is a guide and some tips to properly take care of precious pet.

The first thing that should be taken into consideration is a place where your pet can stay particularly outdoors. Looking into building a rabbit hutch or buying one would be two of the best options that you can consider. You should make sure that the hutch is designed and built basing on the needs of your pet. Considering the fact that rabbits can become ill due to too much heat exposure then the hutch should be shady. You also need to consider the weather. 

Because the weather changes every once in a while, you have to take a look into a hutch that is made of waterproof materials in preparation for the winter or the rainy seasons. This is one way of making sure that it will be a safe place for your pet. If you do not have the tools, materials and the time to build a hutch, then you can just purchase one from a pet store.

Constant cleaning of the hutch is also required to prevent your pet from getting sick. This is a very important part considering that not all veterinarians have enough knowledge to treat and take care of rabbits when they get ill. This is also one way to avoid spending a certain amount of money in order to have your pet treated by professionals. Place newspapers in the area where your pet sheds its waste to clean it easily daily. Remove foods that are scattered inside the hutch and replace them daily. Keeping the hutch clean is also a way to avoid it from having any unpleasant smell that will be bad for you and your pet.

Providing your pet with what it needs is also an important part. This is the part when you need to provide the foods and other things that your pet needs. Normally, rabbits eat fresh vegetables which mean that you have to keep a supply of this food to make sure that your pet won't starve. Your pet also needs exercise in order to become healthy and fit. And, for it to exercise, you need to provide some equipment inside the hutch where your pet can exercise and play.

If you will be able to properly take care of your pet rabbit, you will definitely find out that raising a rabbit is really rewarding. You will be able to experience the benefits associated to taking care of a rabbit. Rabbits may not be like dogs which are known to be man's best friend but they are also good pets.

Understanding The Needs And Wants Of A Rabbit

Just like humans and other kinds of pets, rabbits also have their needs and wants that should be provided by their owners. It is undeniable that the decision to whether or not get a pet rabbit is a hard to make, you have to consider some important things first.

If there are children in your home, getting a rabbit may be a very good option for you because they are fragile and kids might play and hurt them. But if you are really certain in getting a rabbit, then you should also be ready with the necessary tools and equipments that for your new pet. You have to completely understand what a rabbit needs and wants in order to properly take care of it.

The first thing that you should get is a rabbit hutch, a shelter for your rabbit. A hutch is not just a usual cage with wires; it is something that is really intended for a rabbit. It is a cage with legs that elevates it from the ground. The main purpose of the legs is to keep the rabbit safe from bigger animals like dogs. Because rabbits are normally small, you have to make sure that it is protected from predators and some outdoor elements like the weather. Considering the size of your pet before you actually build or get a hutch is a must. It should big enough for your rabbit to hop around and play.

Once you already have a hutch, you need to provide other things that should be placed inside it. You might want to add a blanket to make your pet more comfortable inside its shelter and to keep it warm during winter or rainy seasons. You also need to place a feeder and a water bottle for the food and water. And because rabbits also love to play, you should put some toys inside the hutch that your pet can play with. You can also consider the idea of getting another rabbit to make each other in company.

On the other hand, just like cats, dogs, chinchillas and other pets, grooming your pet rabbit is also necessary. Aside from keeping the hutch clean and odor free, you also need to brush their coat/fur for about a few minutes depending on how thick their coat/fur is. You have to spend some time with your pet everyday because this is an important part of having a pet. 

You also have to make sure that you are able to provide your pet with fresh and healthy foods which are necessary for its health. If possible, do everything to prevent your rabbit from getting ill because it will mean additional cost on your part. In the event that the rabbits get sick, you have to take it to a veterinarian who has enough knowledge and skill to take care of a rabbit. Remember that not all veterinarians are trained to deal with health problems of rabbits. Therefore, if you think that you cannot provide everything that your pet needs and wants, you might want to stay away from the idea of getting a pet rabbit.

When Your Pet Ferret Is Really Old

Ferrets are wonderful little guys, but their life span is short. Around the age of seven to ten years, these perpetual toddlers slow down, get sick, and pass on. I've had a lot of ferrets, many of whom have passed on. Since my daughter and I tend to pick up older ferrets from the shelter, we've spent a lot of time doing hospice care. How do you care for your elderly ferret?

Think about the bridge

The ferret community talks about a beautiful bridge where our animals go and wait for us after they die. They play and have fun at the bridge until their humans come, and then the entire family crosses together. Whether you believe in souls or not, whether you believe in an after life or not, it can help to think "maybe there's a bridge." After a ferret dies, my daughter usually says to me, "Mommy, I hope there really is a rainbow bridge." I don't believe in the bridge, but I sure do like to pretend that I do. It's kind of like pretending Santa Claus exists, and it can help while you adjust.

Love your friend while he's still here

My current hospice fellow is Mortimer. He doesn't like other ferrets, so he lives in a cage next to my desk. When he wakes up, he'll glance at me and give me that "I want out" look. I let him out and he wonders around the house for a bit. I've built some "love pouches" for him. These are basically sewn together rectangles with a strap. I hang the "love pouch" around my neck and put Morty inside. He likes to walk around with me to see and smell things. He likes to sleep near my heartbeat. And, he tries to jump out of the pouch when he's done.

Make sure your buddy gets food

Teeth tend to wear out as we age. Can your ferret still eat kibble? (Well, that's assuming you feed your ferrets kibble.) If he has trouble eating, or loses weight, try feeding him duck soup. Duck soup is a generic term for any customized food that's easier to eat. Duck soup could be softened kibble, pureed chicken, or any number of special recipes.

Watch your buddy and recognize when it's time

I've been "lucky" with some ferrets, and haven't had to make any decisions regarding the end of their life. Sonia Rose, for instance, ate happily and wondered the house until the night before she died. She had a stroke, and was gone. I say I'm "lucky" because I don't think she suffered long and I didn't have to suffer making a decision I didn't want to make.

Other times I have not been so "lucky." When Moe's stool turned tar-like, I knew his tumor had taken its toll, and I had to take him in to the doctor. It was obvious to me that he was in pain.

Watch your friend and consider these things.

• Can he still eat? Does he want to eat?
• Can he still move about?
• Does he want to interact with the world?
• Does he look like he's in pain?

No one can identify the right time. No one wants their pet to go too soon and no one wants their pet to live in pain. Just do the best you can.

4 Important Things You Should Know About Having Hermit Crabs For Pets

Hermit crabs are spider related crustaceans living inside sea-snail shells, so they're obviously not your regular household pets. In fact, caring for these exotic pets is quite unique experience, as any hermit breeding enthusiast will tell you! That being said, in order to take care of these one-of-a-kind creatures, there are certain things you should know about them:

1) Social Life 

In wilderness, hermits live in large packs, ranging from dozens to hundreds. This fact implies that they are were social in nature. So if you already own or are planning to take on hermit crabs for pets, it's a good idea for you to go for at least 3 of them.

2) Personality 

Similarly to humans, hermits posses their own behavioral patterns. Some are shy and rarely come out of their shells, whilst others are very inquisitive by nature and do not hesitate to explore their surroundings. When dealing with shy hermits, especially when they're young, it's important to give them time to develop trust in human beings and slowly get used to their living environment.

3) Molting 

Every once in a while, every Hermit crab goes through a natural process called molting - shedding of its old skin (exoskeleton) and growing a new one. This process occurs every year to year and a half and can last for weeks at a time. Hermits go through a lot of stress during this period, and thus require peaceful and quiet surroundings. Due to increased hormonal activity during this period, other crabs tend to become aggressive to molting hermits. So it's really important for you to move molting crabs to an isolated tank where they will be isolated from danger.

Some signs that indicate your crab is about to molt:

a) Hermit crabs molt when dug under sand, so if you notice your crab digging a lot he may well be preparing to molt. 

b) They eat a lot more than usual and stock food in their own 'hiding places'. 

c) They start regenerating their lost limbs.

4) Living Space 

As I stated above, Hermit crabs in wild live in large groups meaning that they also require lots of personal space. So when it comes to captivity, size of your tank matters! As Hermit crabs grow in size and population, stress of being cramped in small living space will drive your hermits to constantly battle each other which, in fact, may lead to unnecessary fatalities. To avoid this problem, simply get a bigger tank.

There are quite a few more behavioral patterns these exotic creatures exhibit in their everyday life. But just following these four guidelines to a tee can make a world of difference in creating a long-lasting bond between you and your pets.