Facts You May Not Have Known About Hermit Crabs

Hermit crabs are found both on land and in water. Whether they are land or sea crabs, they are crustaceans that live in a shell discarded by another animal. This article is talking about the peculiarities of "land" or "tree" hermit crabs, not the ocean varieties.

They truly start life like fish and grow into land life. These little crabs start out in the ocean, much like sea hermit crabs. While they're in the water as babies, hermit crabs start out as larvae called zoeae and grow into aquatic crabs, they swim and breathe underwater through gills. As adults, they can no longer breathe underwater, but they still breathe through gills that must be kept moist to prevent suffocation. Grown up hermit crabs have lost their ability to swim.

Their tail shape is set by their first shell. A hermit crab's rear end curves to fit into and hold onto the shell they live in. The shape of their first shell is very important, and will influence shell selection for the rest of their lives.

They "go number one" below their eyes. Hermit crabs excrete urine through glands at the base of their antennae. Which means that they "pee" through their faces.

Their name is a misnomer. Although these animals are commonly called "hermit crabs" they are actually not true crabs because they lack a hard abdomen armor, and they are not hermits, because they live in large groups of about a hundred crabs in the wild.

Hermit crabs have been bred in captivity, but this is not where pet store stock comes from. All pet stock available has been harvested off beaches throughout the world where these animals are native. Most pet hermit crabs in the US come from the West Atlantic coasts.

They have no vocal cords, but they still "talk". These cute little crustaceans make sounds sort of like chirps by rubbing legs together. This is called "stridulating" and works similar to the noise you get when you rub your two hands together. They can be very expressive.

They molt. To grow, this crustacean has to go through process of burying themselves, shedding their old exoskeleton, eating it, and re-emerging. This is called molting, and the whole thing can take weeks. Without somewhere safe to bury themselves for weeks approximately once or twice a year, a hermit crab will die.

Only six of their ten legs are generally visible. Although hermit crabs have ten legs like a spider, they keep the back four inside their shells to anchor them in and keep the inside of the shell clean.

Legs can be "thrown off" without killing the crab. If a crab is stressed or scared, they can "drop" a leg to distract a threat so that they can hopefully get away. They sometimes do this when they are sickly, too. They will grow a new leg back oven the next few molts.

Hermits do poop. Their owners sometimes wonder if they do, because crab poop is small and blends in with bedding materials. These guys either defecate inside their shell and then scoop it out or out the side of their shell.

"Hermies" have long been adored as short-term pets that are easy to care for. Actually, they can live up to 30 years or so in captivity when cared for correctly. Pet stores routinely give poor pet care to hermit crabs, and pass poor pet care information to owners, resulting in short lifespans. As a very misunderstood pet, they have a strong grass-roots following of devotees on-line distributing good care information.

Exotic Rodents: Why Should I Care?

Keeping rodents as pets means you encounter a lot of misconceptions. Rodents are after all a "pest" and "unclean" and they have a short lifespan, no personality and low intelligence. People assign cruel, arbitrary values to their life and make jokes they would never dream of making about a dog or cat.

One of the above is true; the majority of rodents are short-lived, something often made even shorter if your animal originates from a rodent farm, or unethical breeder or pet shop. Incorrect husbandry, such as keeping a social gerbil alone will also drastically shorten lifespan; a lonely gerbil may live up to 18 months, but if kept with company will likely reach between 3-5 years.

Within this relatively short lifespan rodents pack so much activity, life and personality that it almost makes up for the short length of time they are in your life.

It is true that some rodents smell, it is after all one of their strongest senses and a major form of communication for them. Rodent keepers learn to become accustomed to a certain level of musk and scent-marking, since this means their rodent is happier and more secure. Overzealous cleaning of cages can conversely make the problem much worse, as the rodents will scent mark obsessively to reclaim their territory. Like any animal, this varies greatly - male mice can be quite strong in scent, whereas rodents such as harvest mice and steppe lemmings have almost no odour at all.

To say they are unclean however is false, rodents groom themselves and each other frequently, it is both a form of bonding and social communication. They should never need human intervention for to wash them, although species such as Mongolian gerbils and chinchillas should have a dust bath supplied to allow them to clean their fur. Rodents are only unclean if ill, or kept in poor conditions.

Rodents exhibit a full range of behaviours, their reactions and preferences to things can differ greatly. I don't see how anyone can interact with their pet, given the correct husbandry and believe they have no personality! You should always try a full range of nests, foods, and accessories such as wheels, or climbing material for each individual since there is no telling what a particular animal will love or hate. Some rodents will adore your handling, pet mice may brux when happy, and mice pups and guinea-pigs jump vertically in excitement known as "popcorning". Some rodents can be trained to follow simple commands, take obstacles courses, and gerbils are not alone in very swiftly learning the sound of their own names.

More exotic rodents will be less interested in human interaction, and some such as the African pygmy mice are too small to handle safely. The fact that some exotics are more pets to observe than interact with is hardly a failing on their part, or indicative of a lack of intelligence. Given a natural habitat, and space and items to exhibit as full a range of behaviour as possible and it is easy to see how individual each rodent can be.

More established rodent pets can bond with an owner every bit as much as a dog or cat, and in some cases more so. Male mice and rats can be happy riding on an owners shoulders, and pet flying squirrels can bond very closely with an owner providing they have good breeding and are acquired at a young age. The important aspect is to consider what you want from a pet, for a rodent can be every bit as rewarding as a larger animal - it just may need a keener eye to see it.

Coping With The Loss of A Pet Rat

For many rat owners, losing one of their best furry friends is a very emotional and painful experience. Often, friends and family might not understand the extent of your grief over the loss of a 'rat'.

What they fail to understand is that you had a deep connection with your friend on a soul level and that they were a close friend, just like a human friend. 

Please take heart and know that many pet carers share this same deep grieving when they lose a beloved animal friend.

Many people have different ways of coping with grief, it is important to allow yourself time and space to grieve in the way that only you can. Sometimes, it is helpful to pay a tribute to your friend through creating a pictorial record of their life or by sharing an obituary on a rat forum.

Do whatever feels right for you to help you come to terms with your loss. Give yourself time before you feel yourself again. It can take me around 2-3 months before I feel mostly recovered from the loss of a ratty friend. Having other ratties to take care of also helps. They can also feel the loss of a close friend, so they need your comfort and presence to help them with their grief too.

What helps me is knowing that these little beings had a wonderful life with me they may never have otherwise had. And also, my own faith in a Conscious Loving Creator gives me a sense that there is no end to life, but only the physical relinquishing of a material form no longer able to sustain itself.

Also, the passing of your present rat(s) also makes room for even more rats to enter your life and enjoy the love and wonderful lifestyle you have to give them.

Many people hurt so badly that they say they don't want another rat(s). Hopefully, after a little time, once over their grief, they will realise that although it was painful to lose their friend, they also had many many hours of joy and fun with them. And so did the rats with them!

In the film 'Ghost' Swayze's character said at the end ' You take the love with you'. And I think that's true. Love is invisible and yet it is without doubt that it exists. Just remember that each one of your rats takes the love back to the Creator and feeds that back into the Universe. It's a wonderful thought isn't it?

You are blessed to have known each one of your wonderful furry friends and they were blessed to have known and shared their lives with you.

Or contact an online pet bereavement counseller.

A book I recommend for the open minded is 'Animals And The Afterlife' by Kim Sheridan. It's a wonderful book with many true accounts from pet owners who have experienced messages or contact with the pets they have lost. This book helped me a lot in coping with loss and the author has been caring for rats for many years that made it particularly meaningful for me.

I have also experienced 'contact' with my rats on the other side of life, and that has made me realise without a doubt, that life continues.

"There is no death, only the relinquishing of a form that temporarily embodied the spirit as part of the play of creation. Essence/Spirit cannot die, it is all around us within everything that comes into being or form. It's the energy that animates our bodies and is the Source of creation. It is that which gives life to the form or being and simply lets go of form when the matter cannot sustain itself any longer due to illness or ageing. For all matter is subject to decay in this third dimensional existence, but life or spirit always Is. Forms will always come and go but Spirit/Life Always Is, Here and Now, Forever and Ever." (Anabrese)

Healing Wishes and Love To You and Your Rats, Wherever They May Be!

Socializing Indonesian Blue Tongue Skinks

Let's face it, the majority of Blue Tongue Skinks in the pet trade currently are imported indonesian (or subspecies) Blue Tongue Skinks. This could mean that the unsuspecting buyer who is expecting the easily handled captive bred blue tongue skink, ends up with a hissy, reclusive, and defensive animal which they are not prepared for. Though the animal may never calm down to the point of a captive bred blue tongue skink, we can "socialize" this bluey to the point that handling doesn't put as much stress on the animal.

By socialize, I really mean get the skink used to human contact so that when handling is needed (or desired by the human keeper) it doesn't put stress on the skink. Stress causes a lot of issues in captive reptiles. Ranging from disease, to going off feed, to just putting them in a really bad mood. So really, when working with most Wild Caught reptiles, taking steps similar to this can help them adjust to life in captivity.

The first thing to always remember is always stay calm. It can be quite the task working with an animal who is deathly afraid of you and only wants to run away. It can also be intimidating to have a blue tongue skink gape it's mouth, threatening to bite you, and hiss. You might get bitten, and you have to accept that. Take it from me, when it comes to Blue Tongue Skinks the thought of being bitten is a lot more painful than the bite itself. Anyways, 99% of the time they are only bluffing, and as soon as you go near them they stop bluffing and attempt to run away.

Okay, so now you've overcome your fears of the not so terrible bluey bite... Well what's next? Patience. This isn't going to be an easy task. This bluey was trapped (or farmed), and shipped to a pet store. It probably doesn't trust humans. So its going to be a slow and steady process.

This is where I would start. Sleep in a tee-shirt for a few days (make sure you aren't wearing any perfume or deodorant before, have a shower if you had some on) and then knot up the openings so the skink can't get into it. Place this in his enclosure and leave it in there. He will hide under the shirt, and lay on top of it and start linking up your smell with security and safety.

I would then move onto hand feeding. The title of that is pretty self explanatory, off the skink small bits of food by hand. If the animal is too afraid to try, don't force it. Just allow him/her to eat by itself and try again next feeding time, they'll catch on eventually.

Once the Bluey will let you pick her/him up with only a little bit of hissing, and no gaping, begin handling sessions. Just let the skink walk on you and explore. Start for the first week at keeping these very short, around five minutes. Week two bump it up to ten minutes. Week three bump it up to fifteen. Once the skink is comfortable in the fifteen minute range of handling you should be good to go for longer. However, remember the skink still needs the heat and UVB lighting in it's enclosure so don't keep them out for too long.

Remember, you will have good days and bad days. One day you might think you've made real progress and then the next the bluey might be right back to square one. They will come around, you just need to take the time to do it!

Why Our Chinchillas Need a Metal Cage

This most appealing of small rodents can make a wonderful pet as long as the new owner understands and appreciates a few chinchilla facts, which must be taken into consideration if deciding to have one.

They chew. They are rodents and chewing is their gig. They need to gnaw because their long front incisor teeth continue to grow throughout their lives and, if allowed to grow too long, the animal cannot eat, eventually starving to death. They will gnaw on anything and everything including baseboards, the bottoms of wooden chairs, wires, your shoes, and cardboard boxes. Chinchillas can injure themselves by chewing on items which have high amounts of resins or other chemicals. They need safe items to satisfy their gnawing needs and may also need dental care to keep those incisors from becoming too long. So, when outside his chinchilla cage, he needs careful supervision - plus he can jump about six feet high!

Natives of the South American Andes, chinchillas have thick fur and are related to guinea pigs. Many find their appearance, soft thick fur, clean habits and lack of odor very attractive when considering one as a pet. But they are not for everyone - sure, they look cuddly, but they absolutely are not and neither do they like being held. So if you have small children, a chinchilla should not be your first choice as a pet. Chinchilla pets have some unique needs and one of the most important is the chinchilla cage in which you'll make his home for him.

First, your chinchilla cage should be made only of metal as he will chomp his way through plastic of any kind. He will destroy a plastic chinchilla cage over a fairly short time and as it will stain easily, it will not be very attractive as part of your home décor. Plastic can also harbor bacteria which is not good for the animal or for his human parents.

So a metal chinchilla cage is essential. Buy the largest your home and budget can handle because chinchillas are very active (at night) and need enough space to romp and play, stretch out and chill. And perhaps if you decided to get a second chinchilla, the cage would then be large enough to accommodate two of the little creatures, saving you the expense of having to replace your first choice.

Consider getting a multi-tiered chinchilla cage to allow him to climb around in his space. A chinchilla cage with a couple of ladders and platforms will suit him perfectly and if you can add a hammock for him to snooze in, he will be in chinchilla heaven. Choose your chinchilla cage with large doors so that you can reach him more easily and make cleaning the cage easier too.

Now, having got the chinchilla cage, we need to decide where to put it. Chinchillas are very susceptible to heat and cold, so his cage should be kept in a place where the temperature can be controlled. It should not be higher than 75F as your pet can become heat-stricken very quickly because of his thick, dense fur. You'll also need to give him a "house" inside his cage; a darker spot where he can curl up and sleep during the day as these little guys are nocturnal.

Another thing to keep in mind - in his native environment, your little chinchilla instinctively cleans his fur by taking dust baths. They roll around in volcanic dust which gets into their fur and absorbs oil and dirt. The dust bath is essential to his good health and he'll need one at least two to three times a week. You can get special chinchilla dust which is made from fine pumice at an exotic animal store or online - just pour it into a large shallow container and let him roll to his heart's content. Do not - repeat - do not give him a bath in water. His dense fur prevents air-drying and the fur close to his skin will retain moisture, which can cause fungus growth or fur rot.

Choosing the right chinchilla cage for your new pet will enable him to live in the best possible environment for his species - and allow you to enjoy him as well, each respecting the other's needs.