Facts You May Not Have Known About Hermit Crabs

Hermit crabs are found both on land and in water. Whether they are land or sea crabs, they are crustaceans that live in a shell discarded by another animal. This article is talking about the peculiarities of "land" or "tree" hermit crabs, not the ocean varieties.

They truly start life like fish and grow into land life. These little crabs start out in the ocean, much like sea hermit crabs. While they're in the water as babies, hermit crabs start out as larvae called zoeae and grow into aquatic crabs, they swim and breathe underwater through gills. As adults, they can no longer breathe underwater, but they still breathe through gills that must be kept moist to prevent suffocation. Grown up hermit crabs have lost their ability to swim.

Their tail shape is set by their first shell. A hermit crab's rear end curves to fit into and hold onto the shell they live in. The shape of their first shell is very important, and will influence shell selection for the rest of their lives.

They "go number one" below their eyes. Hermit crabs excrete urine through glands at the base of their antennae. Which means that they "pee" through their faces.

Their name is a misnomer. Although these animals are commonly called "hermit crabs" they are actually not true crabs because they lack a hard abdomen armor, and they are not hermits, because they live in large groups of about a hundred crabs in the wild.

Hermit crabs have been bred in captivity, but this is not where pet store stock comes from. All pet stock available has been harvested off beaches throughout the world where these animals are native. Most pet hermit crabs in the US come from the West Atlantic coasts.

They have no vocal cords, but they still "talk". These cute little crustaceans make sounds sort of like chirps by rubbing legs together. This is called "stridulating" and works similar to the noise you get when you rub your two hands together. They can be very expressive.

They molt. To grow, this crustacean has to go through process of burying themselves, shedding their old exoskeleton, eating it, and re-emerging. This is called molting, and the whole thing can take weeks. Without somewhere safe to bury themselves for weeks approximately once or twice a year, a hermit crab will die.

Only six of their ten legs are generally visible. Although hermit crabs have ten legs like a spider, they keep the back four inside their shells to anchor them in and keep the inside of the shell clean.

Legs can be "thrown off" without killing the crab. If a crab is stressed or scared, they can "drop" a leg to distract a threat so that they can hopefully get away. They sometimes do this when they are sickly, too. They will grow a new leg back oven the next few molts.

Hermits do poop. Their owners sometimes wonder if they do, because crab poop is small and blends in with bedding materials. These guys either defecate inside their shell and then scoop it out or out the side of their shell.

"Hermies" have long been adored as short-term pets that are easy to care for. Actually, they can live up to 30 years or so in captivity when cared for correctly. Pet stores routinely give poor pet care to hermit crabs, and pass poor pet care information to owners, resulting in short lifespans. As a very misunderstood pet, they have a strong grass-roots following of devotees on-line distributing good care information.

Exotic Rodents: Why Should I Care?

Keeping rodents as pets means you encounter a lot of misconceptions. Rodents are after all a "pest" and "unclean" and they have a short lifespan, no personality and low intelligence. People assign cruel, arbitrary values to their life and make jokes they would never dream of making about a dog or cat.

One of the above is true; the majority of rodents are short-lived, something often made even shorter if your animal originates from a rodent farm, or unethical breeder or pet shop. Incorrect husbandry, such as keeping a social gerbil alone will also drastically shorten lifespan; a lonely gerbil may live up to 18 months, but if kept with company will likely reach between 3-5 years.

Within this relatively short lifespan rodents pack so much activity, life and personality that it almost makes up for the short length of time they are in your life.

It is true that some rodents smell, it is after all one of their strongest senses and a major form of communication for them. Rodent keepers learn to become accustomed to a certain level of musk and scent-marking, since this means their rodent is happier and more secure. Overzealous cleaning of cages can conversely make the problem much worse, as the rodents will scent mark obsessively to reclaim their territory. Like any animal, this varies greatly - male mice can be quite strong in scent, whereas rodents such as harvest mice and steppe lemmings have almost no odour at all.

To say they are unclean however is false, rodents groom themselves and each other frequently, it is both a form of bonding and social communication. They should never need human intervention for to wash them, although species such as Mongolian gerbils and chinchillas should have a dust bath supplied to allow them to clean their fur. Rodents are only unclean if ill, or kept in poor conditions.

Rodents exhibit a full range of behaviours, their reactions and preferences to things can differ greatly. I don't see how anyone can interact with their pet, given the correct husbandry and believe they have no personality! You should always try a full range of nests, foods, and accessories such as wheels, or climbing material for each individual since there is no telling what a particular animal will love or hate. Some rodents will adore your handling, pet mice may brux when happy, and mice pups and guinea-pigs jump vertically in excitement known as "popcorning". Some rodents can be trained to follow simple commands, take obstacles courses, and gerbils are not alone in very swiftly learning the sound of their own names.

More exotic rodents will be less interested in human interaction, and some such as the African pygmy mice are too small to handle safely. The fact that some exotics are more pets to observe than interact with is hardly a failing on their part, or indicative of a lack of intelligence. Given a natural habitat, and space and items to exhibit as full a range of behaviour as possible and it is easy to see how individual each rodent can be.

More established rodent pets can bond with an owner every bit as much as a dog or cat, and in some cases more so. Male mice and rats can be happy riding on an owners shoulders, and pet flying squirrels can bond very closely with an owner providing they have good breeding and are acquired at a young age. The important aspect is to consider what you want from a pet, for a rodent can be every bit as rewarding as a larger animal - it just may need a keener eye to see it.

Coping With The Loss of A Pet Rat

For many rat owners, losing one of their best furry friends is a very emotional and painful experience. Often, friends and family might not understand the extent of your grief over the loss of a 'rat'.

What they fail to understand is that you had a deep connection with your friend on a soul level and that they were a close friend, just like a human friend. 

Please take heart and know that many pet carers share this same deep grieving when they lose a beloved animal friend.

Many people have different ways of coping with grief, it is important to allow yourself time and space to grieve in the way that only you can. Sometimes, it is helpful to pay a tribute to your friend through creating a pictorial record of their life or by sharing an obituary on a rat forum.

Do whatever feels right for you to help you come to terms with your loss. Give yourself time before you feel yourself again. It can take me around 2-3 months before I feel mostly recovered from the loss of a ratty friend. Having other ratties to take care of also helps. They can also feel the loss of a close friend, so they need your comfort and presence to help them with their grief too.

What helps me is knowing that these little beings had a wonderful life with me they may never have otherwise had. And also, my own faith in a Conscious Loving Creator gives me a sense that there is no end to life, but only the physical relinquishing of a material form no longer able to sustain itself.

Also, the passing of your present rat(s) also makes room for even more rats to enter your life and enjoy the love and wonderful lifestyle you have to give them.

Many people hurt so badly that they say they don't want another rat(s). Hopefully, after a little time, once over their grief, they will realise that although it was painful to lose their friend, they also had many many hours of joy and fun with them. And so did the rats with them!

In the film 'Ghost' Swayze's character said at the end ' You take the love with you'. And I think that's true. Love is invisible and yet it is without doubt that it exists. Just remember that each one of your rats takes the love back to the Creator and feeds that back into the Universe. It's a wonderful thought isn't it?

You are blessed to have known each one of your wonderful furry friends and they were blessed to have known and shared their lives with you.

Or contact an online pet bereavement counseller.

A book I recommend for the open minded is 'Animals And The Afterlife' by Kim Sheridan. It's a wonderful book with many true accounts from pet owners who have experienced messages or contact with the pets they have lost. This book helped me a lot in coping with loss and the author has been caring for rats for many years that made it particularly meaningful for me.

I have also experienced 'contact' with my rats on the other side of life, and that has made me realise without a doubt, that life continues.

"There is no death, only the relinquishing of a form that temporarily embodied the spirit as part of the play of creation. Essence/Spirit cannot die, it is all around us within everything that comes into being or form. It's the energy that animates our bodies and is the Source of creation. It is that which gives life to the form or being and simply lets go of form when the matter cannot sustain itself any longer due to illness or ageing. For all matter is subject to decay in this third dimensional existence, but life or spirit always Is. Forms will always come and go but Spirit/Life Always Is, Here and Now, Forever and Ever." (Anabrese)

Healing Wishes and Love To You and Your Rats, Wherever They May Be!

Socializing Indonesian Blue Tongue Skinks

Let's face it, the majority of Blue Tongue Skinks in the pet trade currently are imported indonesian (or subspecies) Blue Tongue Skinks. This could mean that the unsuspecting buyer who is expecting the easily handled captive bred blue tongue skink, ends up with a hissy, reclusive, and defensive animal which they are not prepared for. Though the animal may never calm down to the point of a captive bred blue tongue skink, we can "socialize" this bluey to the point that handling doesn't put as much stress on the animal.

By socialize, I really mean get the skink used to human contact so that when handling is needed (or desired by the human keeper) it doesn't put stress on the skink. Stress causes a lot of issues in captive reptiles. Ranging from disease, to going off feed, to just putting them in a really bad mood. So really, when working with most Wild Caught reptiles, taking steps similar to this can help them adjust to life in captivity.

The first thing to always remember is always stay calm. It can be quite the task working with an animal who is deathly afraid of you and only wants to run away. It can also be intimidating to have a blue tongue skink gape it's mouth, threatening to bite you, and hiss. You might get bitten, and you have to accept that. Take it from me, when it comes to Blue Tongue Skinks the thought of being bitten is a lot more painful than the bite itself. Anyways, 99% of the time they are only bluffing, and as soon as you go near them they stop bluffing and attempt to run away.

Okay, so now you've overcome your fears of the not so terrible bluey bite... Well what's next? Patience. This isn't going to be an easy task. This bluey was trapped (or farmed), and shipped to a pet store. It probably doesn't trust humans. So its going to be a slow and steady process.

This is where I would start. Sleep in a tee-shirt for a few days (make sure you aren't wearing any perfume or deodorant before, have a shower if you had some on) and then knot up the openings so the skink can't get into it. Place this in his enclosure and leave it in there. He will hide under the shirt, and lay on top of it and start linking up your smell with security and safety.

I would then move onto hand feeding. The title of that is pretty self explanatory, off the skink small bits of food by hand. If the animal is too afraid to try, don't force it. Just allow him/her to eat by itself and try again next feeding time, they'll catch on eventually.

Once the Bluey will let you pick her/him up with only a little bit of hissing, and no gaping, begin handling sessions. Just let the skink walk on you and explore. Start for the first week at keeping these very short, around five minutes. Week two bump it up to ten minutes. Week three bump it up to fifteen. Once the skink is comfortable in the fifteen minute range of handling you should be good to go for longer. However, remember the skink still needs the heat and UVB lighting in it's enclosure so don't keep them out for too long.

Remember, you will have good days and bad days. One day you might think you've made real progress and then the next the bluey might be right back to square one. They will come around, you just need to take the time to do it!

Bearded Dragon Care - Cleaning Your Bearded Dragon Habitat

To ensure proper bearded dragon care, it's important to make sure you clean their habitats. It's vital that you clean the habitat everyday. Bearded dragons typically produce waste once a day and that includes urine. The urine instantly soaks down to the bottom of the cage into the substrate. 

One thing that does help with the smell of the fecal matter is choosing a good substrate, something like the ground up walnut shell substrate is great and fairly cheap. Whatever you are feeding your dragon,insect wise, especially the crickets, will carry the excrement around and eat it. It's just gross. The easiest way to clean the substrate daily is to get a wired scoop or aquarium fish net.

The dragons water should be changed everyday, you might have to change it a couple times a day. It's recommended getting a stone type of water dish for them. With this type of water dish, they won't be able to knock it over and cause a big spill in their cage. If they spill and the water collects under the water or food dish, it can mold because of the habitats warm temperatures. 

If the water sits for too long, it begins to create a nasty film on the sides and bottom of the dish that can begin to grow bacteria and make your dragon sick. Soak the water dish once a week in a water and very tiny amount of bleach type mixture. You want to let it soak for at least 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly. If you have other reptiles, do not let any of the dishes come in contact with each other. This is called cross contamination and it could compromise your dragons and other reptiles health.

Equally important is cleaning the food dish daily. If your dragon is eating greens, or bearded dragon diet, or you're putting worms in the dish, bacteria can grow just as easy as it can in the water. Another reason this is important is because the temperatures of the habitat stay warm during the day and it cause the lettuce to wilt and if left too long, will go bad and it could lead to mold. Like the water dish, you want to soak this in a water and bleach (very small amount) for at least 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

Once a month, you should clean the entire habitat, including furnishings. Cleaning the furnishings can be done by taking them out and soaking them in the water/bleach solution as mentioned above. Soak for at least 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Make sure it's completely dry before putting it back into the habitat. The substrate needs to be changed once a month, as long as you're spot cleaning it daily. The easiest way to remove the substrate is with a shop vac. You can also scoop it out, but it takes a while. 

After the substrate is removed, use a warm soapy (not too much or it's difficult to get all the soap) water mixture. With a clean cloth, sponge, etc, wipe down the bottom and all the sides of the habitat real good. You can use the same sponge or cloth to rinse. Make sure all of the soap is out of it and start wiping the soap out of the habitat. Use paper towel, a clean towel, etc to dry the habitat completely. Now you're ready to pour the new substrate in. Make sure to make a note on a calendar the date you cleaned the habitat.

Once you start doing the cleanings etc, it truly does become second nature to providing excellent bearded dragon care.

Bearded dragons make wonderful pets, they can also live a very long time if you take care of them the right way.

Pet Hedgehogs - Buying Guide

When buying pet hedgehogs, there are some important things to look for to make sure you have a healthy animal.

Things to check: 

• Its Nose - your hedgehog's nose should be black and wet, kind of like a dogs. It should not be running and it should not be making "rasping" noises as this may be a sign of a respiratory infection.
• Eyes - should be black and ball like, the eyes should be clear and black, patchy eyes and or cloudy eyes are signs of genetic defects and any hedgehog with these should not be bought. Other signs that the hedgehog is not healthy include, runny, closed, sunken or droopy eyes and any signs of conjunctivitis.
• Ears - Ears should be nice and clean. Your new pet may have little nibbles or chunks out of their ears but this is fine as long as they are healed (sometimes a hoglets they can get a little too close to their siblings and be bitten)
• Weight - They should be "plump" if you look at their belly there should be a little padding and no loose droopy skin, it should also have fine hair and you should see its little chubby pink belly. Which if it will let you touch it will feel soft and a fluffy.
• Legs - Watch your hog have a little walk around, this one is mostly common sense, make sure it is walking as it should, no wobbles or limps or anything like that.
• Responses - A healthy animal will be very inquisitive and interested in anything in its proximity, if you put your hand in front of it, that should be enough to get it around you sniffing and maybe having a little lick. It should also start to "huffle" if it gets stressed, so try picking it up and seeing if it balls up and huffles, this is completely normal for pet hedgehogs.
• Quills - You want to make sure that there are no missing quills or bald patches, often there are broken quills but this is normal as they can be quite rough and tumble, but they are very resilient animals and can handle a broken quill or two.
• Skin - some hedgehogs have little mites at the base of their quills, if they do they will have small scabs at the base, these are easy to see and identify. Never buy a hedgehog with mites.

Testing a pet hedgehogs temperament - there are a few simple things you can do to test that your pet hedgehogs temperament is good and that you get a sociable animal, because nobody wants a moody or shy pet. 

• Pick up your hog and it should curl into a ball and "huffle", turn it onto it's back and see how long it takes to uncurl, a social hog will do this in about 30 seconds, if it does not ball at all then you have an extremely sociable little pet.
• Stroke your hedgehog - Will it let you stroke its quills or its belly? What about its feet? Most hogs will not let you do this without curling up, however if it does then that's a fantastic sign.
• Put it on the floor- When you put it down, a sociable hog will uncurl and start sniffing things almost immediately. Some will curl up and huffle and for a bit but if they do this for around 2 minutes or more then that is a sign that your hog may not be the most sociable.

Hedgehogs As Pets - An Amazing Idea

Are you searching for the perfect pet? Look no further, I have the solution, it has the cute factor, is cheap to buy, is even cheaper to keep, provides lots of entertainment, doesn't take up too much space and did I mention that they are ridiculously cute?

I'm talking about an African pygmy hedgehog, they literally are the perfect pet (in my completely biased opinion). The entertainment provided by these little cuties can last for hours, they are so curious and intelligent that just watching them is entertaining. Whatever you put in their cage will be sniffed, pulled around, licked and combined with other items to create some form of havoc. Mine has realized that if he puts his wheel up against his food bowl he will never knock it over, yet he doesn't seem to care that it makes it ridiculously noisy.

Keeping hedgehogs as pets is an awesome idea, you can pick one up from a good breeder for around £100/ $150, and once you have that initial outlay they cost barely nothing, they eat dry cat food and sleep on wood shavings. Of course if you feel like treating your hedgehog you can buy meal worms or scramble some eggs for them, at a minuscule extra cost. The toys that they play with can be anything from toilet roll tubes to a bit of string tied to the roof of their cage.

The cuteness comes in whenever your hog is awake, they will literally sniff everything you put in front of them, and there is not a cuter site in the world than when they like the smell of something and start licking it. It's ridiculously cute.

There are other things to consider before getting hedgehogs as pets, such as health, quality of breeder, these are things that require an article in themselves but we will deal with that later.

For now though, more reasons why you want one, watching them play with their toys is a sheer joy, my little boy Anderson loves running on his wheel, it is almost as if he knows when you are watching because he will run around in circuits, on his wheel for a minute, around his house, into his tube, over for a drink of water, then around his food bowl and back onto the wheel to repeat the exact same circuit. However when I am not watching, he will run around on his wheel for hours on end.

I highly recommend hedgehogs as pets.

How to Choose a Cage for Your Sugar Glider

You're considering getting a sugar glider as a pet. Great - a very unusual choice as they are enchanting little creatures and will bring you a great deal of pleasure, as they enjoy interacting with their owners - you can carry him around in your shirt pocket. They are very affectionate and bond well with their owners as well as with each other. If you are thinking seriously about this however, be aware that you need to have at least two sugar gliders - they are social animals and need to be among their own kind. They are considered exotic animals and as such, have special needs which must be met in order for them to thrive.

Be aware too, that some states have laws against keeping sugar gliders - in their native country of Australia, it is illegal to own one unless you have been approved by the state and are specially licensed. Sugar gliders can live for eight to fifteen years in captivity and taking a close look at your life-style will tell you whether you are equipped to take on such a responsibility for what could be many years. When you acquire a pet, you have it for life - a forever home!

Of course, you have given a great deal of thought to providing a proper home for such an exotic pet. You already know their habits and the fact that they are nocturnal. Providing an appropriate enclosure for them would be your first concern - and there are many ways to build or buy sugar glider cages. Building one might be a better choice, because you are better able to fit it in the spot you have chosen for it.

Its dimensions are important; for a pair, you will need a minimum of twenty-four inches for width and depth - but the important thing is the height of your sugar glider cage as these little animals are climbers. Thirty-six inches high would be the minimum and more would be better to accommodate their climbing instincts. The mesh used to build sugar glider cages should be no more than half an inch wide and if you put some branches and ropes inside, they will remain strong and healthy with climbing exercise. 

Some toys perhaps; they love an exercise wheel. It should be a large wheel with a solid surface so that tails and legs don't get caught. And how about those clear plastic globes which you can put your sugar glider in - he can roll around the house. How about a length of PVC pipe - this would give them a place to hide, as well as play.

Add a couple of platforms for them to climb on. Fixing a few horizontal bars on the inside of the mesh walls will help too because these little guys love to climb and jump - it's what they do! If you add branches, be certain that they are free from pesticides and fertilizers as well as being from non-toxic plants. Coniferous tree branches such as pine and cedar should also be avoided as they have sticky sap in them.

Consider placing your sugar gliders' cage inside a large plastic tray as this will catch any material which falls outside the cage - it's not easy to house-train them. A secure latch is essential as sugar gliders are pretty smart and can figure out how to open the cage door themselves. In the bottom, put a thick layer of shavings - aspen or fir is perfect as you can clean it out a couple of times per week. Avoid using cedar as it is toxic to small animals.

Your sugar gliders' cage should be placed in a spot which is free from drafts and where the average temperature is above a normal room temperature of 73 degrees F. Your sugar gliders' cage should also have a nest box in it and it's suggested that you place this against the ceiling of the cage so that they can't use the top of it as a bathroom. Best of all is a pouch (they are marsupials, after all) made out of a washable cloth, such as corduroy, which you can attach to the mesh wall of your sugar gliders' cage. 

You can make these at home - make a few of them so that you can change them frequently. Another great benefit is that you can remove the pouch with the gliders inside to make it easier for them to bond with you. Place their water bottle high in the cage too as they are happier at the top of the structure - they live high up in trees when in the wild.

Enjoy your sugar gliders but remember please - these are social animals and need their own kind to bond with. When you finally get your sugar gliders, get them both at the same time so that they can hang out together in their own new territory which you have provided for them.

Why Our Chinchillas Need a Metal Cage

This most appealing of small rodents can make a wonderful pet as long as the new owner understands and appreciates a few chinchilla facts, which must be taken into consideration if deciding to have one.

They chew. They are rodents and chewing is their gig. They need to gnaw because their long front incisor teeth continue to grow throughout their lives and, if allowed to grow too long, the animal cannot eat, eventually starving to death. They will gnaw on anything and everything including baseboards, the bottoms of wooden chairs, wires, your shoes, and cardboard boxes. Chinchillas can injure themselves by chewing on items which have high amounts of resins or other chemicals. They need safe items to satisfy their gnawing needs and may also need dental care to keep those incisors from becoming too long. So, when outside his chinchilla cage, he needs careful supervision - plus he can jump about six feet high!

Natives of the South American Andes, chinchillas have thick fur and are related to guinea pigs. Many find their appearance, soft thick fur, clean habits and lack of odor very attractive when considering one as a pet. But they are not for everyone - sure, they look cuddly, but they absolutely are not and neither do they like being held. So if you have small children, a chinchilla should not be your first choice as a pet. Chinchilla pets have some unique needs and one of the most important is the chinchilla cage in which you'll make his home for him.

First, your chinchilla cage should be made only of metal as he will chomp his way through plastic of any kind. He will destroy a plastic chinchilla cage over a fairly short time and as it will stain easily, it will not be very attractive as part of your home décor. Plastic can also harbor bacteria which is not good for the animal or for his human parents.

So a metal chinchilla cage is essential. Buy the largest your home and budget can handle because chinchillas are very active (at night) and need enough space to romp and play, stretch out and chill. And perhaps if you decided to get a second chinchilla, the cage would then be large enough to accommodate two of the little creatures, saving you the expense of having to replace your first choice.

Consider getting a multi-tiered chinchilla cage to allow him to climb around in his space. A chinchilla cage with a couple of ladders and platforms will suit him perfectly and if you can add a hammock for him to snooze in, he will be in chinchilla heaven. Choose your chinchilla cage with large doors so that you can reach him more easily and make cleaning the cage easier too.

Now, having got the chinchilla cage, we need to decide where to put it. Chinchillas are very susceptible to heat and cold, so his cage should be kept in a place where the temperature can be controlled. It should not be higher than 75F as your pet can become heat-stricken very quickly because of his thick, dense fur. You'll also need to give him a "house" inside his cage; a darker spot where he can curl up and sleep during the day as these little guys are nocturnal.

Another thing to keep in mind - in his native environment, your little chinchilla instinctively cleans his fur by taking dust baths. They roll around in volcanic dust which gets into their fur and absorbs oil and dirt. The dust bath is essential to his good health and he'll need one at least two to three times a week. You can get special chinchilla dust which is made from fine pumice at an exotic animal store or online - just pour it into a large shallow container and let him roll to his heart's content. Do not - repeat - do not give him a bath in water. His dense fur prevents air-drying and the fur close to his skin will retain moisture, which can cause fungus growth or fur rot.

Choosing the right chinchilla cage for your new pet will enable him to live in the best possible environment for his species - and allow you to enjoy him as well, each respecting the other's needs.

What Will My Hermit Crab Eat?

You might be wondering "What in the world do hermit crabs actually eat?" Well, look no further, I'm going to go over a wide array of foods that your crab will love, and that will keep her healthy.

They actually consume a fairly decent variety of different foods, most of which are common and inexpensive. Commercially prepared foods will make up the foundation of a healthy crab's diet, with fruits, grains and other common foods rounding things out.

You will be able to find commercially prepared foods at any pet store that are safe for hermit crabs, and you will find a thorough list of "people foods" your crabs will love below.

Variety is the Spice of Life

Oh so true, and especially when it comes to a healthy hermit crab diet. Your crabs will thrive if given a variety of different foods each day. Choosing a good prepared food and supplementing with fresh foods is always a good way to go. Foods should be rotated regularly since prepared foods, fruits, and other foods listed below all contain different vitamins and micronutrients that will benefit your little crabby friends.

Be diligent when choosing a commercial crab food from the pet store. Any food containing ethoxyquin or copper sulfate should be avoided, as these ingredients are both included in common pesticides, and I don't feel good about feeding them to my crabs.

For the "people food", try some these!

He'll enjoy: 

• Dried cereals, crackers, and bread
• Diced pears, bananas, coconut, and apples
• Grapes (peeled)
• Peanut Butter
• Shredded Spinach
• Shredded Lettuce
• Cooked Potatoes

Serve your crab the food in very small pieces so she can manage eating them without difficulty.

Did you know that hermit crabs have a sweet tooth? It's true. They often enjoy munching on sweet foods, and a good way to satisfy these cravings is with baby food.

Some flavors they will like: 

• Bananas and Apples
• Apples, Kiwi, and Mango
• Apple Sauce
• Sweet Potato & Apple
• Apple and Pear
• Guava Fruit
• Papaya Fruit
• Mango Fruit
• Sweet Corn
• Chiquita Banana

Anything fruity will work, so don't feel limited by the above list. Baby foods are sweet and nutritious so they make an ideal choice. Hermit crabs, like people, will all have different preferences when it comes to the foods they enjoy. Take notice of what your crabs polish off quickly, and what tends to sit for some time without being eaten.

Hermit Crabs: Some Basic Information

As great as hermit crabs are to keep as pets, it's no surprise that you're looking for info on these fun little critters. Most people know little about these "oh so unique" pets, but I'd like to change that. The following article will include some of the basic information that anyone interested in "adopting" them should know.

"Hermies" are quite different from many other common pets. They are easy to take care of, inexpensive to purchase and maintain, and are just plain cool! Add to that the fact they can be found in just about any pet store, and you've got one good candidate for a new pet.

In the interest of getting you informed, I'll explain what hermit crabs are, and then I'll expound on why I think they make such terrific pets.

When you see these shelled creatures at your local pet store, you're looking at land-based or terrestrial hermit crab. This type of crab belongs to the family of coenobitidae.

These creatures are pretty unique. Not only does his "shell as a home" distinguish him from most other animals, but he starts off his life as a sea creature. They can survive for a few months away from the water, but will periodically travel back to the shore and take a dip to sustain them for a while.

On a personal note, I've been continually surprised by how much personality "hermies" have once you get to know them. Each individual crab I've owned has been a little different than the rest. As a matter of fact, I usually wait about a week before naming a new one, so I can pick a name that matches their personality!

What Do I Need to Take Care of My Hermit Crab?

Well, they don't require much in the way of supplies. If you're thinking of buying one, however, I'd recommend thinking again.

These crabs are very social in nature. As you become friends with yours, you'll see what I'm talking about. These carbs didn't earn their name from being loners. If you're considering keeping them as pets, let me give you a word of advice - the more you buy the happier they'll be.

These social creatures need each other's company, I recommend purchasing 4-12 of them at a time. In fact, many crab owners I know purchase their pets by the dozen. It replicates the social environment they would thrive in in nature.

The Best Foods for Your Guinea Pig!

When you think of grazing animals, you normally think of large livestock like cows or horses. What you might not know is that your guinea pig is also a grazer. This means that your little pet will need to have an ample supply of food left out with them all day. 

Perhaps one of the most important foods that you can offer your pet is fresh, bagged, and dust-free hay. Resist purchasing it from feed stores that normally sell for cattle or other animals. The hay will help to stabilize their digestive system properly. If you notice your little guy has loose stools, there is a good chance they aren't getting enough hay. This hay along with a fortified guinea pig mix should be left out for your pig at all times.

Obviously, they cannot obtain all their nutritional needs by hay and dry food alone. In fact, guinea pigs are complicated creatures and require other foods that will give them adequate supplies of vitamins and minerals. One of the most important vitamins for these guys is Vitamin C. 

The reason is because they do not have the necessary enzyme to produce vitamin C on their own. Before you start offering your guinea pig an abundance source of oranges and other fruits, remember that extra foods should be given in smaller quantities, and not left out for them to consume all day long.

Some of the best choices for your little furry friend are leafy green vegetables, melons (including the rinds), oranges, broccoli, kale, or even cabbage. Regular iceberg lettuce should be avoided as it can cause loose stools and dehydration. Offer your little friend one or two very small servings of fruit or veggies daily. When they no longer seem interested, remove it from the cage so it doesn't get moldy or sour, and upset their digestive system.

Another must have for your little guy is clean fresh water. If your refrigerator has a water filtration system use it to fill your little friend water bowl. Be sure to use heavy bowls or ones that attach to the cage so they don't end up spilling their fluids all over themselves or the cage. Additionally, change the water frequently every day as bacteria builds up quickly.

When looking for guinea pig dry foods, choose ones that are especially made for them. Although you may think your little guy could eat something that a rabbit or hamster could - the truth is they are different animals with different requirements. Choose a high quality guinea pig mix. Some of them are available with specific pigs in mind, for instance if you are breeding or have a 'senior' pig that you are caring for. Make sure that you read the labels and feed accordingly. A guinea pig will eat constantly if allowed, so don't mistake their interest in food for actual hunger, or need.

You will of course also want to offer your little guy treats. This is a great part of training. Remember though that too many treats can make your guinea overweight causing tremendous pressure on their heart and lungs and making them very sick! So give treats in moderation only. If you are training your pig, then take one treat and break it into very small pieces so that you can still offer positive reinforcement without risking overfeeding.

Pocket Pigs: Sweet Companions For Pet-Lovers

They have wrinkled little nose, large ears compared to their body size; appealing color, funny tricks... I am talking about little pigs which are grabbing people's heart rapidly. "Micro-pig is a perfect pet", said Jane Croft, a breeder at Little Pig Farm.

Whatever you call them... piglets, mini pigs, pixie pigs, pot belly pigs, pocket pigs...one thing is certain... These are the cutest pigs you will ever glimpse!

Small is Beautiful

As the name suggests, these are tiny creatures, much smaller compared to regular pigs. In height, they can grow around 14 inches and weigh around 30-65 pounds. They attained their full growth in 2-3 years and have an average life expectancy of around 15 years.

These pigs are exceptionally clean. Even people who are likely to catch allergies easily will not face any difficulty with tiny companions. Reason being their skin is similar to ours only and it is near to impossible that they will carry and pass-on allergies.

Intelligent Companions

Believe it or not, these pocket toys are very intelligent also. Some people consider them as competitors of dogs in intelligence level! Keep in your bedroom; they will never make it a mess. Their affectionate and highly social nature is bound to surprise you. Can you imagine any pig enjoying TV and FM with you? Take these pigs at home; you will get this unique experience also.

Things to Take Care

You need good pet care to maintain their activeness and social nature. Play with them, keep them active. Else they would become lethargic, lazy and a bit aggressive also. At times, you may feel that they are challenging you as an owner by doing against what you say or by other such activities. But there is nothing unusual in it. Initially many pets behave this way. You need to train them properly how to respect their owner and others. Make sure you don't punish them physically. After all, they are animals only and may take time to learn and understand. Instead, it's better to keep them motivated by providing healthy food and involving them in some tricks like playing with ball, sitting on order etc.

Having a tiny pig at home is similar to having a little kid at home. They require special attention, especially when it comes to food. They are very fond of food and have the capacity to eat endlessly, so it's your duty to take care of their diet. After all, maintaining pet health is your foremost responsibility. To prevent them putting on excessive weight, they should be kept away from kitchen and their favorite dishes. You should also provide them proper space to run else they will become obese!

Lot of celebrities including Paris Hilton, Victoria Beckham, and Rupert Grint have purchased these little animals to grace their homes. If their novelties have attracted you also, take a cute tiny pig at your home and enjoy with this unique friend!

A Definitive Guide In Taking Care Of Your Pet Rabbit

Because rabbits are not the usual pets that people take care of, there are some things that you need to know first in order to properly take care of your exotic pet. Remember that taking care of a rabbit requires you to exert a lot of hard work, effort, time and even money in some cases. It would not be as easy as you may think it is especially if it is you first time to raise a rabbit. Below is a guide and some tips to properly take care of precious pet.

The first thing that should be taken into consideration is a place where your pet can stay particularly outdoors. Looking into building a rabbit hutch or buying one would be two of the best options that you can consider. You should make sure that the hutch is designed and built basing on the needs of your pet. Considering the fact that rabbits can become ill due to too much heat exposure then the hutch should be shady. You also need to consider the weather. 

Because the weather changes every once in a while, you have to take a look into a hutch that is made of waterproof materials in preparation for the winter or the rainy seasons. This is one way of making sure that it will be a safe place for your pet. If you do not have the tools, materials and the time to build a hutch, then you can just purchase one from a pet store.

Constant cleaning of the hutch is also required to prevent your pet from getting sick. This is a very important part considering that not all veterinarians have enough knowledge to treat and take care of rabbits when they get ill. This is also one way to avoid spending a certain amount of money in order to have your pet treated by professionals. Place newspapers in the area where your pet sheds its waste to clean it easily daily. Remove foods that are scattered inside the hutch and replace them daily. Keeping the hutch clean is also a way to avoid it from having any unpleasant smell that will be bad for you and your pet.

Providing your pet with what it needs is also an important part. This is the part when you need to provide the foods and other things that your pet needs. Normally, rabbits eat fresh vegetables which mean that you have to keep a supply of this food to make sure that your pet won't starve. Your pet also needs exercise in order to become healthy and fit. And, for it to exercise, you need to provide some equipment inside the hutch where your pet can exercise and play.

If you will be able to properly take care of your pet rabbit, you will definitely find out that raising a rabbit is really rewarding. You will be able to experience the benefits associated to taking care of a rabbit. Rabbits may not be like dogs which are known to be man's best friend but they are also good pets.

Understanding The Needs And Wants Of A Rabbit

Just like humans and other kinds of pets, rabbits also have their needs and wants that should be provided by their owners. It is undeniable that the decision to whether or not get a pet rabbit is a hard to make, you have to consider some important things first.

If there are children in your home, getting a rabbit may be a very good option for you because they are fragile and kids might play and hurt them. But if you are really certain in getting a rabbit, then you should also be ready with the necessary tools and equipments that for your new pet. You have to completely understand what a rabbit needs and wants in order to properly take care of it.

The first thing that you should get is a rabbit hutch, a shelter for your rabbit. A hutch is not just a usual cage with wires; it is something that is really intended for a rabbit. It is a cage with legs that elevates it from the ground. The main purpose of the legs is to keep the rabbit safe from bigger animals like dogs. Because rabbits are normally small, you have to make sure that it is protected from predators and some outdoor elements like the weather. Considering the size of your pet before you actually build or get a hutch is a must. It should big enough for your rabbit to hop around and play.

Once you already have a hutch, you need to provide other things that should be placed inside it. You might want to add a blanket to make your pet more comfortable inside its shelter and to keep it warm during winter or rainy seasons. You also need to place a feeder and a water bottle for the food and water. And because rabbits also love to play, you should put some toys inside the hutch that your pet can play with. You can also consider the idea of getting another rabbit to make each other in company.

On the other hand, just like cats, dogs, chinchillas and other pets, grooming your pet rabbit is also necessary. Aside from keeping the hutch clean and odor free, you also need to brush their coat/fur for about a few minutes depending on how thick their coat/fur is. You have to spend some time with your pet everyday because this is an important part of having a pet. 

You also have to make sure that you are able to provide your pet with fresh and healthy foods which are necessary for its health. If possible, do everything to prevent your rabbit from getting ill because it will mean additional cost on your part. In the event that the rabbits get sick, you have to take it to a veterinarian who has enough knowledge and skill to take care of a rabbit. Remember that not all veterinarians are trained to deal with health problems of rabbits. Therefore, if you think that you cannot provide everything that your pet needs and wants, you might want to stay away from the idea of getting a pet rabbit.

Pros Of Raising A Rabbit: An Exotic Pet

It is a known fact that many people consider raising pets of different kinds because of their own personal reasons. Dogs are just among the most common kind of animal that people consider as pets; after all they are known to be man's best friend. 

You can also see people with cats and birds as a part of their household. But aside from these animals, there are people who find raising a rabbit as the best option to take a look into. Instead of raising dogs and cats which are two of the most common and popular pets, such people chose to raise rabbits. So what's with raising a rabbit? Are there any benefits that a person can enjoy in raising one?

Just like taking care of other kinds of pets, raising a rabbit is also associated with a number of pros/benefits. If you are planning to get yourself a rabbit instead of a dog or a cat, that wouldn't be a big surprise because rabbits are normally irresistible. They are very cute and cuddly animals that will surely make you happy for quite some time even if they are among those that are called as exotic pets. 

The major benefit of raising a rabbit has something to do with your health and your diet. Because rabbits mostly eat fresh vegetables, then you have to buy fresh vegetables even if you are not really into this kind of food. Somehow, you will be encouraged by your pet to change your diet into a healthy one and eat fresh vegetables. This does not mean that you have to eat the foods that your pet rabbit eats, this simply means that if your pet eats healthy foods then why won't you?

Another thing that can be considered as a pro in raising a rabbit is the fact that it can take away your depression and somehow control your blood pressure. This benefit actually does not only apply if you have a pet rabbit, you can also enjoy this benefit if your have a pet dog or cat. 

However, unlike owning a dog or cat, there is no need for you to take your rabbit for a walk or brush its hair. You just have to get a rabbit hutch where it can comfortably stay and play. Also, you do not have to worry about your pet disturbing other people because of the loud sound it can create. Normally, rabbits do not cause too much noise, they do not meow like cats or bark like dogs.

These are just some of the pros associated with raising a rabbit. No doubt, rabbits can be considered as ideal pets regardless of your location and age. As long as you provide your pet with everything that it needs and you have a complete understanding on how to take care of it, then you will not experience any major issues. Just do not assume that rabbits are perfect pets, there will be times where in you will encounter nibbling issues, health problems and other issues/problems with your pet rabbit.

Hamster Wheels - Best Practices

If you are considering becoming a hamster owner, then you should know that owning a hamster wheel is a must. In order to give your hamster - and you - the best experience possible, there are four important characteristics that you must pay attention to when you purchase your wheel.

First, a hamster wheel should not have any openings on its inside surface, meaning that it should not have any open rungs or any sort of open grating through which your hamster's foot could fall and get caught. Think about how fast your hamster will be running; if there is an opening in which its foot could slip through, then it could break his leg. This would be a serious injury (for your hamster, and likely also to your cash flow). 

To avoid this situation, you have two options: the first is to simply purchase a wheel that has a solid running surface. If you already own a wheel, then your second option is to weave cardboard through the rungs and attach it securely to the running surface of the hamster wheel so that there is a solid surface on which your pet can run. Hamster wheels are relatively inexpensive, so I recommend that you purchase a wheel with a solid surface at the outset.

The second important characteristic of a hamster wheel is its size. It is all too easy to get a wheel that is too small for your pet cricetid. You will know that the wheel is the right size if, when your hamster is running at full speed, his back remains perfectly straight, and the only parts of his body that make contact with any part of the wheel are his feet. If your hamster has to arch his back when he runs, or if his back rubs against the center spindle, then the wheel is too small. You must get a larger wheel or you risk damaging your pet's spine.

The third characteristic of the hamster wheel has to do with you and your comfort. Since hamsters are nocturnal creatures, your pet will use his wheel the most during the night - when you and your family are probably trying to sleep. Thus, you want to find a wheel that rotates quietly. To test it in the pet store, give the wheel a hard pull to get it spinning rapidly, and pay attention to how much noise it makes - note especially if there is any squeaking. If the wheel is packaged so that you cannot easily spin it, then ask the pet store associates to open the package for you so that you can do this test before you make your purchase. The pet store should willingly accommodate your request, since anyone who purchases a hamster wheel should ask for this.

Fourth, you must purchase one wheel for each hamster that you own. You cannot expect that the hamsters will share, and they each need to get sufficient exercise.

In conclusion, then, you now know the four criteria for choosing a hamster wheel. First, it must have a closed surface; second, it must be sized appropriately for your pet; third, it must not make any noises that would disturb you or your family's slumber; and fourth, you must purchase one wheel for each hamster that you own.